Mastering Russian Tortoise Care: The Ultimate Guide to Husbandry and Conservation

Section 1: The Steppe Dweller: Understanding the Russian Tortoise in its Natural Context

A profound understanding of a species’ natural history is the bedrock upon which all successful captive husbandry is built.

For the Russian tortoise (Testudo horsfieldii), its adaptations to a life of extremes in the arid highlands of Central Asia directly inform every aspect of its care, from enclosure design to diet and health management.

To merely follow a list of instructions without comprehending the ecological and biological rationale is to invite failure.

This section provides the essential context of the species’ taxonomy, native environment, and innate behaviors, establishing the scientific foundation for the practical recommendations that follow.

1.1. Taxonomy, Subspecies, and Conservation Status

The Russian tortoise, known scientifically as Testudo horsfieldii, is also commonly referred to by several other names, including Horsfield’s tortoise, the Afghan tortoise, the Central Asian tortoise, and the steppe tortoise.¹

It belongs to the family Testudinidae, which encompasses all land tortoises.

Taxonomists have described several subspecies, including

T.

h.

horsfieldii, T.

h.

kazachstanica, T.

h.

bogdanovi, T.

h.

rustamovi, and T.

h.

kuznetzovi, though these classifications are not universally accepted within the scientific community.¹

Critically for any prospective keeper, the Russian tortoise is listed as a threatened species, designated as “Vulnerable” by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN).¹

This precarious status is a direct result of human activities, primarily habitat destruction from agriculture and warfare, and rampant over-collection for the international pet trade.¹

A staggering majority of Russian tortoises available in the pet trade, particularly in the United States, are wild-caught individuals.⁵

This fact carries profound implications for the keeper.

These animals endure immense stress during capture and transit, often arriving in a state of physiological debt, dehydration, and with a high probability of carrying a significant parasite load (such as the debilitating renal parasite Hexamita parva), viral infections like Herpesvirus, and bacterial respiratory infections.⁶

Consequently, acquiring a Russian tortoise is often less an act of simple pet ownership and more an immediate exercise in rehabilitation.

This elevates the importance of an initial wellness examination by a qualified reptile veterinarian and the implementation of a strict quarantine protocol from a best practice to an absolute necessity for responsible ownership.⁶

The ethical imperative is clear: prospective owners should make every effort to source captive-bred tortoises.

These animals are generally hardier, acclimate better to captive conditions, and do not contribute to the decline of vulnerable wild populations.⁵

1.2. The Arid Highlands: A Deep Dive into the Natural Habitat

The natural range of the Russian tortoise extends across the harsh, arid steppes and rocky hillsides of Central Asia, including parts of Pakistan, Afghanistan, Iran, southeastern Russia, and China.⁴

They are often found at high elevations, sometimes exceeding 7,000 feet, where they are exposed to a continental climate of extreme temperature fluctuations.⁴

This environment is characterized by dry, sandy or loamy soil, sparse vegetation, and intense solar radiation.¹

To survive these conditions, the Russian tortoise is, above all, a burrow-dweller.⁴

This is a central aspect of its biology that cannot be overstated.

The tortoise excavates deep, extensive burrows, sometimes reaching depths of two meters (over six feet), which end in a chamber large enough for it to turn around.¹

The burrow is not merely a hiding place; it is a sophisticated life-support system.

It provides critical insulation from the lethal surface temperatures of mid-summer heat and the deep freezes of winter.⁴

Furthermore, these burrows maintain a microclimate of significantly higher humidity than the arid air at the surface.⁶

This humid retreat is essential for preventing dehydration, a constant threat in their native habitat.

The tortoise’s reliance on burrowing is so complete that its ability to dig is dependent on seasonal rains, which soften the hard-packed soil enough for excavation.¹

This ecological reality directly informs several critical husbandry needs.

The requirement for a deep substrate in a captive enclosure is not an optional enrichment feature but a biological necessity, allowing the tortoise to perform this innate and vital behavior.¹³

The provision of a “humid hide” within an otherwise dry indoor setup is a direct simulation of the burrow’s function, providing a necessary gradient of humidity that is essential for proper hydration, kidney function, and smooth shell growth.¹⁰

1.3. A Life of Extremes: Natural Behaviors, Diet, and Lifespan in the Wild

The life of a wild Russian tortoise is one of brief activity punctuated by long periods of dormancy.

Due to the extreme climate, they may only be active for three months of the year.¹⁶

During the hottest parts of the summer, their activity becomes crepuscular, emerging only at dawn and dusk to forage when temperatures are more tolerable.¹

The rest of the day is spent in the cool, stable environment of the burrow.

They survive the harsh, freezing winters through a period of dormancy known as brumation (often called hibernation) and may enter a similar state of inactivity, aestivation, to survive the peak heat and drought of summer.⁴

They are active and determined foragers, climbers, and diggers.⁵

This innate drive to explore and move is a key consideration for their captive welfare.

In a small, barren enclosure, this natural energy is frustrated, leading to stereotypical stress behaviors such as incessant pacing and attempts to climb or dig through the enclosure walls.⁸

Therefore, providing a large and complex environment is not a luxury but a fundamental requirement for their physical and psychological well-being.

Their natural diet consists entirely of the ephemeral herbaceous and succulent vegetation that grows on the steppes.

They consume a high-fiber diet of grasses, broadleaf weeds, twigs, and flowers.²

Fruit is rarely encountered and not a significant part of their diet.⁴

With proper care that reflects these natural adaptations, Russian tortoises are exceptionally long-lived, with lifespans commonly exceeding 40 to 50 years in captivity.⁵

1.4. Temperament: The Feisty, Solitary, and Curious Nature of T. horsfieldii

Russian tortoises are often described as having “big personalities” for their small size.

They are feisty, curious, energetic, and can become quite personable, often learning to associate their keepers with food.⁸

This responsiveness, however, can lead to a dangerous form of anthropomorphism where keepers project human social needs onto their pets.²²

It is critical to understand that Russian tortoises are fundamentally solitary and territorial creatures.²²

In the wild, interactions are typically brief and agonistic, centered on territorial disputes or mating.²³

Housing them together in the confined space of a captive enclosure is a recipe for chronic stress and physical harm.

Males are notoriously aggressive towards one another and will fight viciously.⁹

A male will also relentlessly harass a female, with mating attempts so frequent and aggressive that they can lead to severe stress, injury, and even death.⁶

While multiple females may sometimes coexist in a very large and complex environment, there is still a high risk of bullying, where a dominant individual prevents subordinates from accessing food, water, and basking sites.⁶

For the vast majority of keepers, the only safe and ethical housing arrangement is to keep one tortoise per enclosure.

Behaviors that may appear “social” to an untrained eye, such as multiple tortoises basking in the same spot, are almost always a reflection of competition for a limited resource (the best basking area), not companionship.

Similarly, while they may tolerate careful handling, they are easily stressed by being overly restrained or frequently picked up.⁵

Their “personable” nature should be interpreted as a tolerance for a non-threatening provider, not a desire for physical affection or social interaction.

Understanding this distinction is vital to preventing the profound welfare problems caused by improper social grouping.

Section 2: Replicating the Wild: Enclosure Design and Environmental Management

Creating a suitable habitat for a Russian tortoise involves translating the ecological principles of its native steppe environment into a safe, functional, and stimulating captive setting.

This requires a systematic approach to enclosure selection, substrate, and the precise management of temperature, lighting, and humidity gradients.

The goal is not merely to contain the animal, but to provide an environment that allows it to thermoregulate, hydrate, and perform its full range of natural behaviors.

2.1. The Gold Standard: The Physiological and Behavioral Benefits of Outdoor Enclosures

When climate permits, an outdoor enclosure is unequivocally the preferred and ideal method for housing adult Russian tortoises.⁵

The benefits are manifold and have a direct positive impact on the tortoise’s long-term health and well-being.

Outdoor habitats provide access to natural, unfiltered sunlight, which is vastly superior to any artificial lamp for the synthesis of Vitamin D3, the crucial hormone for calcium metabolism.²⁶

The ample space encourages high levels of physical activity, which strengthens muscle and bone, aids digestion, and prevents the obesity and lethargy common in indoor-kept animals.

Furthermore, it allows for natural grazing on a diverse range of edible weeds and plants, providing a diet richer in fiber and micronutrients than can be easily replicated indoors.⁵

An outdoor tortoise with access to deep soil can engage in natural burrowing, allowing it to self-regulate its body temperature and hydration levels with remarkable precision, seeking cooler, more humid conditions underground during the heat of the day.⁸

This effectively makes outdoor housing a form of preventative medicine, directly mitigating the risks of Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD), nutritional deficiencies, and stress-related behaviors that are a constant challenge in indoor setups.

However, an outdoor enclosure must be constructed with security as the highest priority.

Russian tortoises are masterful escape artists.

• Walls: The perimeter walls must be at least 12 inches (30 cm) high and sunk a minimum of 6 to 12 inches into the ground to prevent the tortoise from digging underneath and escaping.⁵ The walls should be made of an opaque material, such as wood, concrete blocks, or solid vinyl fencing. If a tortoise can see through a barrier, it will spend a great deal of energy persistently trying to get through it, causing stress and potential injury.¹⁶
• Size: The enclosure should be as large as possible, with a minimum of 36 square feet (e.g., 6 ft x 6 ft) recommended for a single adult.¹⁰
• Predator Protection: The enclosure must be secure from predators. This includes dogs, raccoons, and birds of prey. For smaller tortoises, a secure, latched lid made of hardware cloth or strong mesh is essential.¹⁰
• Landscaping: The interior should offer a varied landscape with areas of direct sun, deep shade (provided by tortoise-safe shrubs), and at least one waterproof, insulated hide box or artificial burrow for shelter during inclement weather.⁵

2.2. Indoor Husbandry: A Critical Analysis of Tortoise Tables and Vivariums

For keepers in climates with cold winters, or for raising delicate hatchlings, an indoor enclosure is a necessity.¹²

The two most common options are tortoise tables and vivariums, each with significant trade-offs that must be understood as part of an integrated environmental system.

• Tortoise Tables: These are open-topped enclosures, often made of wood or plastic stock tanks.⁸ Their primary advantage is superior ventilation, which prevents the buildup of stale, humid air that can lead to respiratory infections.¹⁵ However, their open top also means they have very poor heat insulation, making it challenging to maintain stable temperatures without a powerful heat source or in a room that is not already consistently warm.²⁹
• Vivariums: These are enclosed tanks, typically made of wood with a glass front, or entirely of glass (aquariums).²⁹ Their main benefit is excellent heat and humidity retention, which can make it easier to control the thermal environment.²⁹ However, this is also their greatest flaw. The poor ventilation inherent in their design can trap moisture and ammonia from waste, creating a damp, stagnant environment that is a primary cause of shell rot and respiratory disease in an arid species like the Russian tortoise.¹⁵ Glass-walled vivariums also present a source of chronic stress, as tortoises do not perceive glass as a barrier and will persistently try to walk through it.¹⁸

The choice of enclosure dictates the type of heating and lighting that can be safely used.

All-in-one Mercury Vapor Bulbs (MVBs), which produce both heat and UVB, cannot be regulated by a thermostat and can easily overheat an enclosed vivarium, making them suitable only for open tortoise tables.³¹

A vivarium, due to its enclosed nature,

must be heated with a thermostatically controlled device, such as a halogen bulb on a dimming thermostat or a ceramic heat emitter on a pulse or on/off thermostat.²⁶

Regardless of type, the enclosure must provide adequate floor space.

While minimums vary in recommendations, a space of at least 8 square feet (e.g., 4 ft x 2 ft) should be considered the absolute smallest for a single adult, with larger being significantly better.²⁴

An undersized enclosure is a direct cause of stress and inactivity.⁸

2.3. The Non-Negotiables: Establishing Correct Thermal and Lighting Gradients

Reptiles are ectothermic, meaning they rely on external sources to regulate their body temperature.³³

Providing a proper thermal gradient—a range of temperatures from a hot basking spot to a cool retreat—is not optional; it is essential for digestion, immune function, and overall metabolic health.⁵

• Heating: The enclosure must have a distinct warm side and cool side. A basking lamp, preferably a halogen flood bulb which best mimics the infrared spectrum of solar radiation, should create a basking spot on the surface (at tortoise shell height) of 90-100°F (32−38°C).⁸ The ambient air temperature on the warm side of the enclosure should be in the 70-85°F (
  21−29°C) range, while the cool side should provide a retreat in the low 70s°F ( 22°C).⁵ At night, all light-emitting heat sources must be turned off to provide a natural day/night cycle. Temperatures can safely drop to between 60-75°F (
  15−24°C).⁸ If supplemental nighttime heat is required in a very cold room, a non-light-emitting ceramic heat emitter (CHE) must be used.²⁶ All heating elements must be regulated by an appropriate thermostat to prevent overheating and thermal burns.²¹
• UVB Lighting: The provision of Ultraviolet-B (UVB) radiation is a non-negotiable requirement for all indoor-housed tortoises.⁵ UVB light triggers the synthesis of Vitamin D3 in the tortoise’s skin, which is essential for the body to absorb and utilize dietary calcium.²⁹ Without adequate UVB, tortoises will inevitably develop Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD), a crippling and often fatal condition characterized by a soft shell and deformed bones.²⁹ A high-output, desert-strength linear fluorescent tube, rated at 10% to 12% UVB output (classified as Ferguson Zone 3), is required.²⁹ T5 High Output (HO) bulbs are technologically superior, producing a stronger and deeper field of UVB than older T8 models.²⁹ The bulb should be mounted in a fixture with a reflector to maximize its output and positioned so the tortoise is within the manufacturer’s recommended distance for achieving the target UV Index (UVI) of 3.0-4.0 in the basking zone.¹⁰ It is critical to remember that UVB output degrades over time, even while the bulb still produces visible light; bulbs must be replaced every 6 to 12 months according to manufacturer specifications.⁵
• Visible Light: Russian tortoises are diurnal and associate bright light with daytime activity. To better simulate the intensity of natural sunlight, an additional bright, full-spectrum visible light source, such as a ~6500K LED lamp, should span the length of the enclosure.¹⁰ This encourages activity and benefits the growth of any live plants in the habitat.

Table 1: Environmental Parameters for Russian Tortoises

Parameter	Hatchling/Juvenile	Adult	Notes/Rationale
Basking Surface Temp	90-95°F (32−35°C)	95-100°F (35−38°C)	Essential for digestion and thermoregulation. Measured at shell height. 17
Warm Side Ambient	80-85°F (27−29°C)	75-85°F (24−29°C)	Provides the warm end of the thermal gradient. 5
Cool Side Ambient	70-75°F (21−24°C)	70-75°F (21−24°C)	Provides a retreat to cool down, preventing overheating. 5
Nighttime Temp	70-75°F (21−24°C)	60-70°F (15−21°C)	A natural temperature drop is crucial. No lights at night. 8
Ambient Humidity	40-75% (gradient)	40-75% (gradient)	Lower on the warm side, higher on the cool side. 10
Humid Hide Humidity	~70-80%	~70-75%	Essential microclimate for hydration and shell health. 10
UVB Strength	Ferguson Zone 3 (10-12%)	Ferguson Zone 3 (10-12%)	Non-negotiable for Vitamin D3 synthesis and MBD prevention. 10
Photoperiod	12-14 hours (summer)	12-14 hours (summer)	Mimics natural seasonal light cycles. 10
	10 hours (winter)	10 hours (winter)

2.4. The Paradox of Aridity: Mastering Humidity and Microclimates

One of the most common and damaging mistakes in Russian tortoise husbandry stems from the oversimplified label of “arid species”.⁶

While it is true that they require a dry substrate and low ambient humidity (around 40-50%) to prevent respiratory and shell infections, this is only half the story.⁴

The biological reality is that these are “burrow-dwelling arid species.” In their natural habitat, they spend the majority of their time in burrows where the humidity is significantly higher than at the surface.⁴

Therefore, a captive Russian tortoise has an absolute physiological need for access to a high-humidity microclimate.¹⁰

This is achieved by providing a “humid hide” on the cool side of the enclosure.

This can be a commercial cave or a simple plastic container with an entrance cut into it, filled with a moisture-retaining substrate like sphagnum moss or coconut coir that is kept damp (not soaking wet).⁶

The tortoise must have the choice to move between the hot, dry basking area and this cool, humid retreat.

This humidity gradient is essential for maintaining proper hydration, preventing the formation of bladder stones (cloacoliths), and ensuring smooth shell growth, particularly in vulnerable hatchlings and juveniles who are prone to “pyramiding” in overly dry conditions.¹⁰

2.5. The Foundation of Well-being: Substrate Selection and Enrichment

The substrate is not merely decorative bedding; it is a functional component of the tortoise’s environment that facilitates natural behaviors and contributes to thermoregulation and hydration.⁸

• Substrate: The substrate must be deep enough to allow for burrowing—a minimum of 4-6 inches, and deeper is better.¹⁴ An ideal mix consists of 50-60% organic topsoil or loam and 40-50% playsand, or a similar mixture using coconut coir instead of soil.⁸ This mixture holds its shape for burrowing and can maintain moisture in one area for the humid hide while staying dry on the surface elsewhere.¹³ Substrates to be strictly avoided include:

• Sand alone: Difficult for tortoises to walk on and can be an impaction risk if ingested in large quantities.⁸
• “Calci-Sand”: Prone to clumping when wet and has been linked to severe gut impactions and eye irritation.¹³
• Pine or Cedar Shavings: These woods release aromatic oils (phenols) that are toxic and can cause respiratory and neurological damage.¹³
• Rabbit Pellets (Alfalfa): While edible, they are too high in protein, mold very quickly when damp, and are extremely dehydrating.¹³
• Enrichment: A barren enclosure leads to a bored, stressed, and inactive tortoise. The habitat should be a complex and stimulating environment. This includes:

• Multiple Hides: At a minimum, one hide should be on the warm side and a humid hide on the cool side.²¹
• Varied Terrain: Large, flat stones provide a clean surface for feeding and help to naturally file down the tortoise’s nails.⁸ Slate tiles are excellent for this purpose.³⁸
• Climbing Objects: Hollow logs, cork bark, and sturdy branches should be arranged to create gentle inclines and obstacles, encouraging exercise and exploration.¹⁰ Care must be taken to ensure objects are stable and cannot cause the tortoise to fall and land on its back.
• Visual Barriers: Objects should be placed to break up sight lines, making the enclosure feel larger and more secure.⁴³
• Dynamic Environment: Periodically rearranging the enclosure’s “furniture” can stimulate curiosity and prevent boredom.¹⁰

Section 3: Fueling a Long Life: Nutritional Science and Hydration

The diet of a captive Russian tortoise is one of the most critical aspects of its long-term health, and also one of the areas where keepers most often make serious errors.

The goal is to replicate the high-fiber, low-protein, low-sugar forage of their native steppe environment.

Failure to do so is a primary cause of numerous metabolic diseases, including renal failure, bladder stones, and shell deformities.

3.1. The High-Fiber, Low-Protein Paradigm: Crafting the Optimal Diet

The digestive system of Testudo horsfieldii is adapted for slowly processing tough, fibrous vegetation.

Their diet in captivity must reflect this.⁵

The foundational principle is to provide a diet that is high in fiber, rich in calcium, and low in protein, fat, and simple sugars.¹⁹

The ideal diet is composed of a wide variety of edible broadleaf weeds and flowers, which most closely mimics their natural forage.⁸

When these are not available, a mixture of appropriate dark, leafy greens from the grocery store can be used.⁸

Variety is paramount to ensure a balanced intake of vitamins and minerals and to prevent the tortoise from becoming a picky eater.¹

A common and serious mistake is the overfeeding of fruit.

While tortoises may eat it eagerly, their digestive systems are not equipped to handle the high sugar content.

This can lead to a disruption of the gut flora, diarrhea, colic, and blooms of harmful intestinal parasites.⁴

Fruit should be considered, at most, a very rare treat, not a regular part of the diet.

Furthermore, feeding should be treated as an essential enrichment activity, not just a delivery of calories.

In the wild, a tortoise spends much of its active time foraging.

To replicate this, keepers should employ strategies that extend feeding time and encourage natural behaviors.

Instead of placing food in a single pile, it can be scattered around the enclosure (scatter feeding), tucked into puzzle feeders, or hung from the top of the enclosure, forcing the tortoise to stretch and work for its meal.¹⁰

Planting edible weeds directly in an outdoor enclosure is an ideal way to promote continuous, natural grazing.⁵

3.2. A Keeper’s Pharmacopoeia: Edible and Toxic Plants

Providing a safe and varied diet requires the ability to correctly identify plants.

Many common garden and household plants are toxic to tortoises.⁴⁶

It should never be assumed that a tortoise will instinctively know to avoid a poisonous plant.⁴⁶

The following table provides a guide to commonly available plants, but keepers should always cross-reference with a definitive resource like The Tortoise Table plant database before offering any new food item.⁴⁸

Table 2: A-Z Guide to Safe and Toxic Plants for Russian Tortoises

Plant Common Name	Scientific Name	Edibility Status	Notes
Abutilon (Flowering Maple)	Abutilon spp.	Safe to Feed Regularly	Flowers and leaves are edible. 4
Aloe Vera	Aloe barbadensis miller	Feed in Moderation	High water content; good for hydration. 50
Aster	Aster spp.	Safe to Feed Regularly	Flowers and leaves are edible. 48
Avocado	Persea americana	TOXIC – Do Not Feed	All parts of the plant are toxic. 44
Azalea / Rhododendron	Rhododendron spp.	TOXIC – Do Not Feed	Highly toxic; can be fatal. 46
Boston Fern	Nephrolepis exaltata	Safe to Feed Regularly	Provides good fiber. 51
Buttercup	Ranunculus spp.	TOXIC – Do Not Feed	Contains irritant compounds. 46
Clover	Trifolium spp.	Feed in Moderation	High in protein; can be fed as part of a varied mix. 48
Dandelion	Taraxacum officinale	Safe to Feed Regularly	Excellent staple food; flowers, leaves, and roots are edible. A favorite of the species. 5
Foxglove	Digitalis purpurea	TOXIC – Do Not Feed	Contains cardiac glycosides; highly toxic. 46
Hibiscus	Hibiscus rosa-sinensis	Safe to Feed Regularly	Excellent staple food; flowers and leaves are highly nutritious. 6
Hosta	Hosta spp.	Safe to Feed Regularly	Leaves are a good food source. 19
Ivy (English)	Hedera helix	TOXIC – Do Not Feed	All parts are toxic. 46
Kale	Brassica oleracea	Feed in Moderation	High in oxalates and goitrogens, which can interfere with calcium absorption and thyroid function. Should only be a small part of a varied diet. 8
Mallow	Malva spp.	Safe to Feed Regularly	Excellent staple food; leaves and flowers are edible. 19
Mulberry	Morus spp.	Safe to Feed Regularly	Leaves are highly nutritious and high in calcium. 4
Nasturtium	Tropaeolum majus	Feed in Moderation	Flowers and leaves are edible and enjoyed by tortoises. 48
Oleander	Nerium oleander	TOXIC – Do Not Feed	Extremely toxic; ingestion can be fatal. 46
Plantain (Broadleaf/Ribwort)	Plantago major/lanceolata	Safe to Feed Regularly	Excellent staple weed, not to be confused with the banana-like fruit. 19
Prickly Pear Cactus	Opuntia spp.	Safe to Feed Regularly	Pads and fruit are excellent sources of fiber and calcium. All spines and glochids must be removed (by burning or scraping) before feeding. 45
Rose	Rosa spp.	Safe to Feed Regularly	Petals and leaves are edible, provided they are from pesticide-free plants. 19
Spinach	Spinacia oleracea	Feed Sparingly	Very high in oxalates, which bind with calcium and prevent its absorption. Should be avoided or fed very rarely. 19
Spider Plant	Chlorophytum comosum	Safe to Feed Regularly	A safe houseplant for enclosures. 51
Violet	Viola spp.	Safe to Feed Regularly	Flowers and leaves are edible. 48

3.3. A Critical Look at Commercial Diets: Pellets, Promises, and Problems

Commercially produced pelleted tortoise diets are ubiquitous in the pet trade and are often marketed as a complete and balanced food source.

However, scientific analysis and expert consensus raise serious concerns about their suitability as a staple diet for Russian tortoises.⁵³

Many of these products contain ingredients that are fundamentally inappropriate for a tortoise’s digestive system, such as soy, corn, wheat, and fruit flavorings.²

These ingredients are high in protein and simple carbohydrates, which are far more rapidly fermentable than the complex carbohydrates found in fibrous weeds.⁵⁴

This can lead to a cascade of negative health effects:

• Accelerated Growth and MBD: The high protein and calorie content promotes unnaturally rapid growth, which places immense strain on the skeletal system and is a primary contributor to MBD and the shell deformity known as pyramiding.¹⁹
• Renal Failure: Excess protein must be processed by the kidneys, leading to an accumulation of urates. Over time, this can cause dehydration, the formation of bladder stones, and ultimately, fatal renal failure.⁹
• Digestive Disruption: The high starch and sugar content can alter the pH of the gut, killing off beneficial symbiotic bacteria and allowing harmful pathogens to proliferate, leading to conditions analogous to ruminal acidosis in cattle.⁵⁴
• Nutritional Imbalances: Studies have shown that the nutritional information on the labels of many commercial diets is often inaccurate, and many have an improper calcium-to-phosphorus ratio.⁵³

Furthermore, these pellets are engineered to be highly palatable, which creates a “palatability trap.” Tortoises may become “addicted” to them and begin refusing the healthier, natural foods they require.⁵⁴

Keepers often misinterpret this strong feeding response as a sign that the food is good for the animal.

Given these significant risks, commercial pellets should not form the basis of a Russian tortoise’s diet.

If used at all, they should be offered as a very small, infrequent supplement to a primary diet of fresh, high-fiber vegetation, or as a useful medium for administering medication.⁵⁵

3.4. Essential Supplementation: A Guide to Calcium and Vitamin D3

In a captive environment, even with a varied diet, supplementation with calcium is essential to ensure proper bone and shell development and to prevent MBD.⁴¹

• Calcium: The diet of herbivorous tortoises is often rich in phosphorus. To maintain the proper balance, a phosphorus-free calcium supplement, typically made from pure calcium carbonate, should be lightly dusted on the tortoise’s food.³⁶ Cuttlefish bone can also be left in the enclosure for the tortoise to gnaw on as it sees fit, which provides both a source of calcium and helps to maintain beak health.¹⁹
• Vitamin D3: The need for dietary Vitamin D3 is entirely dependent on the tortoise’s exposure to UVB radiation. A tortoise housed outdoors with several hours of daily, direct, unfiltered sunlight will synthesize all the D3 it needs and should receive a calcium supplement without added D3.² Conversely, a tortoise housed indoors, relying on artificial UVB lamps, will benefit from a supplement that contains both calcium and D3 to ensure adequate levels.² It is crucial not to provide excess dietary D3 to a tortoise that is already receiving ample UVB, as this can lead to hypervitaminosis D, a toxic condition.
• Multivitamins: A high-quality reptile multivitamin containing preformed Vitamin A should also be used periodically to prevent deficiencies.⁴⁴

The frequency of supplementation varies with the age and reproductive status of the tortoise.

Growing hatchlings and juveniles, as well as egg-laying (gravid) females, have much higher calcium demands than non-breeding adults.⁴⁴

Table 3: Russian Tortoise Supplementation Schedule

Life Stage / Housing Condition	Calcium (Phosphorus-Free)	Calcium with D3	Multivitamin (with Vitamin A)
Hatchling/Juvenile (Indoor)	On days D3 is not used	3-4 times per week	2 times per week
Adult (Indoor)	On days D3 is not used	2-3 times per week	1 time per week
Adult (Outdoor >4hrs sun/day)	3-4 times per week	Do not use	1-2 times per month
Gravid Female (All Housing)	Daily	3-4 times per week (if indoors)	2 times per week

Note: This table provides general guidelines.

Consult a qualified reptile veterinarian to tailor a supplementation plan to your specific animal’s needs.

Sources:.⁴⁴

3.5. The Importance of Water: Soaking, Drinking, and Hydration Protocols

A common and dangerous misconception is that because Russian tortoises are from an arid region, they do not need much water.⁶

In reality, proper hydration is critical to their health, particularly for kidney function and the flushing of urates.

Dehydration is a primary cause of renal failure and the formation of bladder stones.¹⁶

A shallow, stable water dish, large enough for the tortoise to climb into and soak, should be available in the enclosure at all times.⁸

The water must be kept clean and changed daily, as tortoises frequently defecate while soaking, an instinctual behavior to hide their scent in the wild.¹

In addition to a permanent water dish, a routine of regular soaking is highly recommended.

This involves placing the tortoise in a separate container with lukewarm water that comes up to the level where the carapace (top shell) and plastron (bottom shell) meet (chin-deep).⁴¹

Adults should be soaked for 15-30 minutes two to three times per week, while hatchlings and juveniles, who are more susceptible to dehydration, should be soaked more frequently, up to daily.²

These soaks encourage drinking and stimulate the voiding of waste, which is essential for keeping their system flushed.

Sunken eyes are a classic and serious sign of dehydration that requires immediate intervention.¹⁶

Section 4: Proactive Care: Health, Disease, and Veterinary Medicine

Responsible tortoise ownership requires a proactive approach to health management.

This involves learning to recognize the subtle signs of a healthy animal versus one in distress, understanding the direct link between husbandry practices and common diseases, and establishing a relationship with a qualified veterinarian before an emergency arises.

Many of the most common and serious health problems in captive tortoises are entirely preventable through meticulous care.

4.1. Recognizing a Healthy Tortoise: A Head-to-Tail Assessment

Regular, hands-on checks are the best way to monitor a tortoise’s health.

A healthy Russian tortoise should exhibit the following characteristics:

• Activity and Alertness: The tortoise should be active, responsive, and alert when awake. Its eyes should be wide open, clear, and bright, with no swelling or discharge.¹⁶
• Weight and Strength: It should feel solid and heavy for its size, like a rock of similar dimensions.¹⁶ It should be strong enough to walk with its plastron (bottom shell) held clear of the ground.⁶¹
• Shell: After the first six months of life, the shell should be hard and firm, with no soft spots. The scutes (the individual plates of the shell) should be smooth and uniform. Raised, pyramid-like scutes are a sign of improper growth related to diet and humidity.⁵ The shell should be free of cracks, pitting, or discolored patches.⁶⁰
• Head and Limbs: The nose should be clean and dry, with no bubbles or mucus discharge.¹⁶ The skin should be supple and free of unusual lumps, swellings, or sores.¹⁶ The beak should not be overgrown, and the ears (the flat scales behind the jaw) should be flat or slightly concave, not swollen.¹⁶
• Vent: The cloacal opening at the base of the tail should be clean, with no swelling or caked-on waste.⁴⁰

4.2. Common Ailments and Their Link to Husbandry

The vast majority of illnesses seen in captive Russian tortoises are not communicable diseases in the traditional sense, but are metabolic or infectious conditions brought on by failures in husbandry.

• Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) and Pyramiding: MBD is perhaps the most common captive-induced disease. It is a complex metabolic disorder resulting from an imbalance of calcium and phosphorus, caused by an improper diet and/or insufficient exposure to UVB radiation.³⁷ Without UVB, the tortoise cannot synthesize Vitamin D3, and without D3, it cannot absorb calcium from its food.²⁹ The body then leaches calcium from its own bones and shell to fuel essential bodily functions, leading to a soft, pliable shell, deformed and easily fractured limbs, and eventually, death.³⁷ Pyramiding, the abnormal, conical growth of shell scutes, is closely related and is thought to be caused by a combination of a diet too high in protein and environmental conditions that are too dry (insufficient humidity).³⁷
  Prevention is achieved through a proper high-fiber diet, correct calcium supplementation, and essential UVB lighting.
• Respiratory Infections (Runny Nose Syndrome – RNS): These infections are typically bacterial and are almost always precipitated by environmental stressors. Keeping a tortoise in an enclosure that is too cool, too damp, or has a dusty substrate compromises its immune system and irritates its respiratory tract, making it susceptible to infection.⁸ Symptoms include a runny nose, bubbles forming at the nostrils or mouth, wheezing, lethargy, and loss of appetite.³⁷
  Prevention involves maintaining correct temperature and humidity gradients and using a clean, dust-free substrate.
• Shell and Skin Infections (Shell Rot): Bacterial or fungal infections of the shell and skin, often called “shell rot,” typically occur as a secondary infection following trauma (a cut or scrape) or, more commonly, from being kept on a persistently damp and unhygienic substrate.⁴ This underscores the need for a dry primary substrate and regular cleaning.¹⁵
• Parasites: Internal parasites, including roundworms and flagellated protozoa like Hexamita, are extremely common in wild-caught imports.⁸ While a low parasite load may not cause issues in the wild, the stress of captivity can cause parasite populations to explode to life-threatening levels.⁸
  This is why a fecal examination by a vet for any new tortoise is non-negotiable.
• Vitamin A Deficiency (Hypovitaminosis A): This is a direct result of an improper diet, particularly one lacking in a variety of dark, leafy greens.³⁷ Symptoms include swollen eyelids, ear abscesses (seen as large lumps on the side of the head), and a predisposition to respiratory infections.³⁷
  Prevention is achieved by feeding a diverse, appropriate diet and using a multivitamin supplement.

4.3. Finding an Expert: How to Locate and Select a Qualified Reptile Veterinarian

Standard canine and feline veterinarians generally lack the specialized training and equipment necessary to diagnose and treat reptiles.⁶⁶

It is crucial for a tortoise owner to identify a qualified reptile veterinarian in their area

before an emergency occurs.

The most reliable resources for finding a vet with herpetological expertise include:

• The Association of Reptilian and Amphibian Veterinarians (ARAV): Their website features a “Find a Vet” tool that allows users to search for member veterinarians by location. This is the gold standard for locating a specialist.⁶⁷
• Reputable Online Directories: Websites like ReptiFiles maintain curated lists of veterinarians who have been recommended by experienced reptile keepers.⁷⁰
• Local Herpetological Societies: Members of local reptile and tortoise clubs are often the best source for personal recommendations and experiences with area vets.⁶⁶

When selecting a vet, it is appropriate to inquire about their experience with tortoises and their membership in professional organizations like ARAV.

Due to the specialized nature of this field, keepers in rural or less populated areas must be prepared to travel, sometimes for several hours, to access proper veterinary care.

The commitment to providing this care is a fundamental part of responsible ownership.⁶⁶

Section 5: The Long Winter’s Nap: A Practical Guide to Brumation

Brumation, the reptilian equivalent of hibernation, is a natural part of the Russian tortoise’s annual cycle, allowing it to survive the freezing temperatures of its native winter.⁴

In captivity, it is a complex and potentially dangerous process that should only be undertaken by well-informed keepers with healthy animals.

5.1. To Brumate or Not to Brumate: Making an Informed Decision

The first and most critical step is determining if brumation is appropriate.

It is not a requirement for a tortoise’s health in captivity; an animal kept indoors at stable, warm temperatures year-round will not brumate and can live a long, healthy life.⁸

The absolute, non-negotiable rule is that only a perfectly healthy tortoise should be allowed to brumate. The process places significant physiological stress on the animal, and it relies entirely on its stored fat and water reserves to survive for several months.⁷¹

Attempting to brumate a tortoise that is underweight, dehydrated, sick, or has an underlying health condition is extremely dangerous and often fatal.⁵

A pre-brumation health check by a qualified reptile veterinarian, including a fecal exam to check for parasites, is strongly recommended.⁷²

5.2. Pre-Brumation Protocol: Fasting, Hydration, and Health Checks

The preparation for brumation should begin in the late summer or early autumn, mimicking the natural seasonal changes.⁷¹

The process involves several key stages over a period of about four to six weeks:

1. Fasting: As the tortoise’s activity level naturally begins to decrease, all food should be withheld for a period of two to four weeks while still maintaining normal daytime temperatures and lighting.⁷¹ This is critically important to allow the tortoise’s digestive tract to completely empty. Any undigested food left in the gut will rot during the low temperatures of brumation, leading to a fatal systemic infection.⁷⁴
2. Hydration: During the fasting period, the tortoise must be soaked frequently (every other day) in lukewarm water. This ensures it is fully hydrated and encourages it to void any remaining waste from its system. Entering brumation with a full bladder is essential, as this water reserve is used to maintain hydration throughout the winter.⁷²
3. Cool-Down: After the fasting period is complete, the ambient temperatures and the duration of the photoperiod should be gradually reduced over one to two weeks, slowly bringing the tortoise’s body temperature down to around 55-65°F (13−18°C) before it is moved into its hibernation location.⁷³

5.3. The Refrigerator Method: Ensuring Safe and Stable Conditions

Allowing a tortoise to brumate outdoors in a self-dug burrow is not recommended in most climates.

It exposes the animal to unpredictable temperature swings, the risk of freezing, flooding from rain or snowmelt, and predation from rodents that can chew on the dormant tortoise.⁷⁵

The safest and most reliable method for controlled brumation is the “refrigerator method”.⁷⁴

This involves placing the tortoise in a dedicated refrigerator (not one used for human food) where the temperature can be precisely controlled.

• The Hibernaculum: The tortoise should be placed inside a “hibernaculum”—a plastic or wooden box with air holes for ventilation. This box should be filled with a dryish substrate like shredded paper or a mix of soil and coir, allowing the tortoise to burrow in.⁷³
• Critical Temperature Control: The temperature inside the refrigerator must be maintained at a constant, stable level between 39°F and 45°F (4−7°C).⁷¹ A reliable digital thermometer with a probe placed inside the hibernaculum next to the tortoise is essential for monitoring.⁷⁴ Temperatures rising above 50°F (
  10°C) will cause the tortoise to become too active, rapidly burning through its vital energy reserves. Temperatures dropping below freezing (32°F or 0°C) can cause permanent injury, such as blindness, or death.⁷³
• Monitoring: During brumation, the tortoise should be checked periodically (every one to two weeks). This involves a quick visual inspection and weighing. A healthy tortoise should lose no more than 1% of its body weight per month of brumation. Any significant weight loss, or signs of urination (which empties its water reserves), is an emergency that requires the tortoise to be brought out of brumation immediately.⁷² The refrigerator door should be opened briefly a few times a week to allow for fresh air exchange.⁷⁴

5.4. Waking Up: Post-Brumation Care

After a brumation period of typically 10-16 weeks (shorter for younger tortoises), the waking process should be gradual.⁷¹

The hibernaculum should be removed from the refrigerator and left at cool room temperature for several hours.⁷³

Once the tortoise has warmed up and begins to move, it should immediately be given a long soak in lukewarm water to rehydrate.⁷³

Normal heating and lighting should be restored.

Food can be offered after the first 24-48 hours, and a healthy tortoise’s appetite should return to normal within a few days to a week.⁷⁴

Any tortoise that fails to eat or drink after waking should be seen by a veterinarian promptly.

Section 6: Advanced Topics and Responsible Ownership

Beyond the fundamentals of daily care, responsible ownership of a Russian tortoise involves a deeper understanding of common pitfalls, the ethical dimensions of their acquisition and long-term keeping, and a commitment that spans decades.

The longevity of these animals transforms their care from a simple hobby into a significant life commitment.

6.1. Common Mistakes and Misconceptions in Russian Tortoise Care

A review of expert advice and keeper experiences reveals a consistent pattern of common, and often harmful, misconceptions.

Correcting these is fundamental to improving the welfare of captive tortoises.

• Misconception 1: “They are easy, low-maintenance ‘beginner’ pets.”
• Reality: While hardy when cared for properly, their environmental and dietary needs are highly specific and unforgiving of error. The “easy” label often leads to neglect and husbandry failures that result in chronic illness.⁵
• Misconception 2: “A small glass tank is a suitable home.”
• Reality: Russian tortoises are active and require a great deal of floor space. Confining them to a small tank leads to chronic stress, inactivity, obesity, and stereotypical escape behaviors. Glass walls are also a source of stress.⁸
• Misconception 3: “They are a desert animal and don’t need water or humidity.”
• Reality: This is one of the most dangerous misconceptions. While they require a dry primary environment, they have an essential physiological need for access to water for drinking and soaking, and a humid microclimate (burrow/hide) to prevent dehydration and fatal kidney disease.⁶
• Misconception 4: “They are social and get lonely without a friend.”
• Reality: This is a harmful projection of human emotions. They are solitary, territorial animals. Cohabitation is a major source of stress and physical injury, and should be avoided by all but the most experienced keepers with very large, complex habitats.⁹
• Misconception 5: “UVB light is optional, or a sunny window is sufficient.”
• Reality: UVB radiation is non-negotiable for indoor tortoises and is essential for preventing Metabolic Bone Disease. UVB rays do not penetrate window glass, making a specialized reptile UVB lamp an absolute requirement.⁵
• Misconception 6: “A diet of lettuce and fruit from the grocery store is fine.”
• Reality: Such a diet is dangerously low in fiber and high in sugar and water. It will lead to nutritional deficiencies, digestive problems, and metabolic disease over time. A varied, weed-based diet is the correct approach.⁹

6.2. Lessons from the Rescued: Case Studies in Rehabilitation

The stories of rescued and rehabilitated Russian tortoises provide powerful, real-world illustrations of the consequences of improper care and the remarkable resilience of these animals when provided with a correct environment.

The detailed account of Norbert, a tortoise rescued after years of severe neglect, is a particularly poignant example.⁷⁷

He was found emaciated, dehydrated, with an overgrown beak, swollen eyes, a rotting shell, and festering wounds on his feet.

His recovery was a slow, meticulous process involving daily soaks for rehydration, a proper diet of dandelion leaves to restore nutrition, provision of heat and UVB lighting to restart his metabolism, and topical treatments for his wounds.

His journey from the brink of death back to a thriving, active state underscores the direct impact of every aspect of husbandry discussed in this guide.

It demonstrates that hydration, nutrition, and correct environmental parameters are not abstract concepts but are the very pillars of life for these animals.

Other cases highlight the irreversible damage that can be caused by early-life neglect.

A tortoise rescued after four years of improper care was found to be severely stunted in growth, only four inches in diameter when it should have been six to eight inches.⁷⁸

While the tortoise could be rehabilitated to a state of health, this stunted growth is permanent and will likely result in a shortened lifespan.⁷⁸

These case studies serve as both a source of hope for animals in poor situations and a stark warning to prospective keepers: the care provided in the first few years of a tortoise’s life has profound and lasting consequences.

6.3. The 50-Year Commitment: Concluding Thoughts on Ethical, Long-Term Guardianship

Acquiring a Russian tortoise is not a short-term hobby; it is the beginning of a multi-decade commitment to another living being.

With lifespans that can easily reach or exceed 50 years, a Russian tortoise will likely be a part of its owner’s life through major life changes such as moving, marriage, and raising a family.⁵

Responsible ownership requires long-term planning, including provisions for the tortoise’s care in the event of the owner’s death, potentially by including the animal in a will or arranging for a trusted successor.⁷⁶

Ethical guardianship begins before the animal is even acquired.

It involves resisting the impulse purchase of a wild-caught animal from a pet store and instead seeking out a reputable, captive breeder or adopting from a dedicated tortoise rescue organization.⁵

This supports sustainable practices and provides a home for an animal in need, rather than creating demand that fuels the destructive international wildlife trade.

Ultimately, providing expert-level care for a Russian tortoise is a profound and rewarding endeavor.

It requires a commitment to continuous learning, a meticulous attention to detail, and a deep respect for the animal’s unique biological and ecological needs.

By replicating the essential elements of their native steppe environment, keepers can provide a life of health and well-being for these fascinating, feisty, and incredibly long-lived creatures.

Works cited

1. Russian tortoise – Wikipedia, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Russian_tortoise
2. Russian Tortoise – Agrionemys horsfieldii – PetMD, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.petmd.com/russian-tortoise-agrionemys-horsfieldii
3. All About Russian Tortoises! – YouTube, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=arg7d-d-CeM
4. Russian tortoise, Testudo horsfieldii by Mary Anderson Cohen – CTTC, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.tortoise.org/archives/russ.html
5. Russian Tortoise – Arbor View Animal Hospital, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://arborviewah.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/1Russian-Tortoise.pdf
6. Basic Care: Russian Tortoise | Arizona Exotics | -Tortoises & Turtles …, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://coloradoexoticanimalhospital.com/tortoises-turtles/basic-care-russian-tortoise
7. Beginner Mistakes to Avoid When Caring For A Pet Tortoise …, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.kapidolofarms.com/beginner-mistakes-to-avoid-when-caring-for-a-pet-tortoise/
8. Russian Tortoise Care Sheet – Reptiles Magazine, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://reptilesmagazine.com/russian-tortoise-care-sheet/
9. Practical Care and Breeding of the Horsfield’s (Russian) Tortoise in …, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.anapsid.org/russian2.html
10. Russian Tortoise Care Sheet | Dubia.com, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://dubiaroaches.com/blogs/tortoise-care/russian-tortoise-care-sheet
11. www.cascadekennels.com, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.cascadekennels.com/russian-tortoise-care/#:~:text=This%20tortoise%20is%20found%20primarily,as%205%2C000%20to%207%2C000%20feet.
12. Russian Tortoise Care Sheet – ReptiFiles, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://reptifiles.com/russian-tortoise-care-sheet/
13. Substrate – The Russian Tortoise, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://russiantortoise.net/substrate.htm
14. Russian tortoise – Substrate Depth – YouTube, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLPohi0ggpM
15. A Habitat for Horsfields – Tortoise Trust, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.tortoisetrust.org/articles/horsfield_habitat.html
16. RUSSIAN (testudo horsfieldii) CARE SHEET – San Diego Turtle …, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://sdturtle.squarespace.com/s/Russiantortoisecaresheet_11-1-2021.pdf
17. Russian Tortoise Care, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.tortoisesupply.com/RussianTortoiseCare
18. Tortoise behaviour – ExoticDirect, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://exoticdirect.co.uk/news/tortoise-behaviour/
19. Russian Tortoise Diet – The Russian Tortoise, accessed on August 10, 2025, http://www.russiantortoise.org/diet.htm
20. vetplayas.com, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://vetplayas.com/russian-tortoise-pictures-care-sheet-tank-setup-more/
21. Russian Tortoise Care – CHICAGO EXOTICS ANIMAL HOSPITAL, accessed on August 10, 2025, http://www.exoticpetvet.com/russian-tortoise-care.html
22. Russian Tortoise Buddies | Our Reptile Forum, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://ourreptileforum.com/community/threads/russian-tortoise-buddies.24214/
23. Why not to keep 2 tortoises together – a lesson … – Tortaddiction, accessed on August 10, 2025, http://tortaddiction.blogspot.com/2013/09/why-not-to-keep-2-tortoises-together.html
24. Russian Tortoises (Testudo horsfieldii), accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.narbc.com/care_pdfs/Russian_Tortoise_Caresheet.pdf
25. Mediteranean Tortoise Species – Nauti-lass Ponds & Critters, inc., accessed on August 10, 2025, http://www.nauti-lasscritters.com/mediteranean-tortoise-species.html
26. Quick summary of LIGHTING for tortoises – Tortaddiction, accessed on August 10, 2025, http://tortaddiction.blogspot.com/2014/05/quick-summary-of-lighting-for-tortoises.html
27. CONSIDERATIONS FOR OUTDOOR HOUSING OF TORTOISES – LLLReptile, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.lllreptile.com/articles/156-considerations-for-outdoor-housing-of-tortoises
28. Basic Care: Russian Tortoise – Arizona Exotic Animal Hospital, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://azeah.com/tortoises-turtles/basic-care-russian-tortoise
29. Horsfield’s Tortoise Care Sheet – Habitat, Diet, and Health, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.reptilecentre.com/pages/info-horsfields-tortoise-care-sheet
30. The Russian or Horsefield’s Tortoise: an Ideal “First Tortoise”? – Pet Blogs – That Pet Place, accessed on August 10, 2025, http://blogs.thatpetplace.com/thatreptileblog/2009/06/26/the-russian-or-horsefields-tortoise-an-ideal-first-tortoise/
31. UVB light for Tortoise: what you need and how to set it up – Swell Reptiles, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.reptiles.swelluk.com/help-guides/uvb-light-for-tortoise-what-you-need-and-how-to-set-it-up/
32. Russian Tortoise Indoor Housing, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://thetortoisekeeper.com/2017/09/30/rt-indoor-housing/
33. Enclosures – The Tortoise Table, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.thetortoisetable.org.uk/tortoise-care/enclosures/
34. Russian Tortoise | Zoo Med Laboratories, Inc., accessed on August 10, 2025, https://zoomed.com/russian-tortoise/
35. How to care for Russian Tortoise – Reddit, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.reddit.com/r/tortoise/comments/1d4ckd6/how_to_care_for_russian_tortoise/
36. Promoting Proper Bone Development – Tortoise Trust Web, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.tortoisetrust.org/articles/calcium.htm
37. Common Diseases of Tortoises | VCA Animal Hospitals, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/common-diseases-of-tortoises
38. Russian tortoise care guide / info : r/tortoise – Reddit, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.reddit.com/r/tortoise/comments/1ebot0a/russian_tortoise_care_guide_info/
39. Russian Tortoise Care – Sulcata Rescue Ranch, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://mysulcatarescue.org/russian-tortoise-care
40. Russian Tortoise Care: Diet, Habitat & Health | Petco, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.petco.com/content/content-hub/home/articlePages/caresheets/russian-tortoise-care-sheet.html
41. Russian Tortoise – LLLReptile, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.lllreptile.com/articles/51-russian-tortoise/
42. 10 DIY Enrichment Ideas for Russian Tortoises (Fun & Affordable) – Stumps Custom Wood, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.stumpscustomwood.com/keeping-up//diy-russian-tortoise-enrichment-ideas
43. Advice for Russian Tortoise indoor enclosure. – Reddit, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.reddit.com/r/tortoise/comments/18gjbw0/advice_for_russian_tortoise_indoor_enclosure/
44. Russian Tortoise Guide – Arbor View Animal Hospital, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://arborviewah.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Russian-Tortoise-Guide.pdf
45. www.petmd.com, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.petmd.com/russian-tortoise-agrionemys-horsfieldii#:~:text=Russian%20Tortoise%20Diet&text=Ideally%2C%20they%20should%20consume%20a,pear%20cactus%2C%20and%20sweet%20potatoes.
46. Plants Poisonous to Tortoises – Tortoise Group, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://tortoisegroup.org/plants-poisonous-to-tortoises/
47. Toxic Plants and Flowers – The Russian Tortoise, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://russiantortoise.net/toxic-plants.htm
48. A-Z List of edible plants for tortoises – All Homesteading, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://allhomesteading.co.uk/2023/11/27/a-z-list-of-edible-plants-for-tortoises/
49. COMPLETE Russian Tortoise Care Tutorial | Indoors and Outdoors | – YouTube, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z5x7Ul9Z8x0
50. Browse the Tortoise Table Plant Database by A-Z, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.thetortoisetable.org.uk/plant-database/viewplants/a-z/?l=al
51. Tortoise-Safe Plants you can Grow at Home – PlantVine, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.plantvine.com/2024/07/01/tortoise-safe-plants-you-can-grow-at-home/
52. Edible Plants and Weeds for Tortoises & Land Turtles | Arizona …, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://azeah.com/reptiles-amphibians-tortoises-turtles/edible-plants-and-weeds-tortoises-land-turtles
53. (PDF) EVALUATION OF COMMERCIAL TORTOISE AND TURTLE FEEDS – ResearchGate, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.researchgate.net/publication/365076633_EVALUATION_OF_COMMERCIAL_TORTOISE_AND_TURTLE_FEEDS
54. The Weird, Wild World of Commercial Tortoise Foods, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.tortoisetrust.com/post/the-weird-wild-world-of-commercial-tortoise-foods
55. Customer reviews for Mazuri 1474 Balanced Nutrition Feed Diet Pellets for Turtles, Tortoise, 25 lb. | Walmart.com, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.walmart.com/reviews/product/142646988
56. Commercial Turtle Foods: Benefit/Use, Staple/Supplement – theTurtleRoom, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://theturtleroom.org/blog/2012/04/27/commercial-foods-benefitsuses-staplessupplements/
57. Russian Tortoise Care Sheet – Dr. Chuck Books, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://drchuckbooks.com/pet-care-sheet/russian-tortoise
58. Nutritional Mineral and Vitamin Supplements – The Tortoise Table, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.thetortoisetable.org.uk/tortoise-diet/minerals-and-supplements/
59. Russian Tortoise Care – Ness Exotic Wellness Center, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://nessexotic.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/Reptile-Russian_Tortoise_Care.pdf
60. Tortoise Health Check | Essential Routine to Keep Your Tortoise Health – Home & Roost, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://homeandroost.co.uk/blogs/tortoise/tortoise-health-check
61. Russian Tortoise Care Guide – Badgerland Reptile Rescue, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://badgerlandrescue.com/russian-tortoise-care-guide/
62. Common Health Issues in Tortoises: Care & Prevention Tips …, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.pets4homes.co.uk/pet-advice/common-health-issues-in-tortoises.html
63. Common diseases – Tortoise Trust Web, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.tortoisetrust.org/articles/commondisease.html
64. Common Health Problems With Russian Tortoises – PetHelpful, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://pethelpful.com/reptiles-amphibians/russian-tortoises-health
65. Common Health Problems (Turtles and Tortoises) – Chicago Exotics Animal Hospital, accessed on August 10, 2025, http://www.exoticpetvet.com/common-health-problems.html
66. Finding A Herp Veterinarian – Anapsid.org, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.anapsid.org/vets/findingvet.html
67. Find a Vet – Association of Reptile and Amphibian Veterinarians, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://members.arav.org/search/custom.asp?id=3661
68. Veterinary Visits for Reptiles – Companion Animal Clinic, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://companion-vets.com/species/exotic/veterinary-visits-for-reptiles/
69. Association of Reptile and Amphibian Veterinarians, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://arav.org/
70. Reptile Vet Directory – ReptiFiles, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://reptifiles.com/reptile-vet-directory/
71. How do I hibernate my tortoise? A tortoise hibernation guide – ExoticDirect, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://exoticdirect.co.uk/news/tortoises-and-hibernation/
72. Hibernation Recommendations for Tortoises and Turtles – Arizona Exotic Animal Hospital, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://azeah.com/tortoises-turtles/hibernation-recommendations-tortoises-and-turtles
73. TORTOISE HIBERNATION – Royal Veterinary College, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.rvc.ac.uk/Media/Default/small-animal/documents/Tortoise-hibernation-guidelines%202016-1.pdf
74. Colorado Reptile Humane Society’s – Guide to North American Box …, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.corhs.org/uploaded/20130311-211249_CoRHS_Box_Turtle_Hibernation_Guide.pdf
75. Tom’s Brumation Thread: How to Safely “Hibernate” Your Tortoise, and How to Keep Them Awake. – Reddit, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.reddit.com/r/tortoise/comments/1aslk35/toms_brumation_thread_how_to_safely_hibernate/
76. What Are The Mistakes To Avoid When Taking Care Of A Tortoise …, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.kapidolofarms.com/what-are-the-mistakes-to-avoid-when-taking-care-of-a-tortoise/
77. Rescuing and Rehabilitating Norbert (aka Stumpy) – Tortaddiction, accessed on August 10, 2025, http://tortaddiction.blogspot.com/2012/11/rescuing-and-rehabilitating-norbert-aka.html
78. I’m rescuing a Russian tortoise from my friends friend, she’s been neglected for her entire life, I can’t wait to bring her home – Reddit, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.reddit.com/r/tortoise/comments/1gsz1sv/im_rescuing_a_russian_tortoise_from_my_friends/
79. About – Central Texas Tortoise Rescue, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://www.texastortoiserescue.com/about
80. About the Founder – Big and Small Tortoise Rescue and Sanctuary, accessed on August 10, 2025, https://bigandsmalltortoise.org/main/about-the-founder/